Published By: Nirtika Pandita

The ancient weaving styles of India

Done with precision and diligence, these weaving techniques are unique

With a history of textile art spanning almost 5,000 years, it is no surprise that India holds with it various ancient weaving techniques. Those age-old weaving styles and techniques that are beautifully done on a certain fabric is evergreen and loved in the West too.

The weaving techniques are done through a variety of various forms of handlooms and textiles indigenous to India. And these weaving techniques are the reason behind the emergence of different forms and styles of textiles. These weaves are generally done using frames that run vertically interlacing the threads at the right angle. The most common and prominent Indian weaving fabrics are cotton and wool.

Khadi It is a handspun, hand-woven natural fiber cloth that has been prevalent since the British era. The khadi cloth is woven from cotton and now also includes silk, or wool, all of which are spun into yarn on a spinning wheel called a charkha. It is said to be a versatile fabric for its dual quality of being cool in summer and warm in winter. It originated in India and is widely used in Bangladesh and Pakistan, besides being a famous garment in the fashion circle and the West.

Chikankari A famous and most loved weaving technique from Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh has become a part of every Indian’s daily life. From Chikankari kurta, t-shirts, pants to saree, this technique feels the most royal. Generally done of plain cotton cloth, it transforms it. Basically ‘chikan’ comes from the Persian word ‘Chic’ that referred to the ‘jali’ work done on marble or wood. Its other variations are the backstitch, bakhiya, and jail work.

Ikat Native to the village of Pochampalli in Hyderabad, the weaving technique of Ikat has earned itself a place in UNESCO World heritage as an iconic weaving cluster of India. It is done by using the process of Resist Dyeing also called ikat. It is a double ikat textile known for its geometric pattern and an intentional bleed that is made possible by methods of preventing the dye from spreading all across the fabric.

Paithani Brocade Exactly same looking fabric from both sides is an invention of weaving technique that is some 2000 years old to Aurangabad, Maharashtra. It is made of silk with a zaripallav and border traditionally incorporated with motifs of flowers, fruits and birds especially peacock, weaved in rainbow colors.

From looms to the international markets, these Indian traditional weaves are making India proud.