Published By: Ishita Vohra

Understanding the Role of Hair Developers in Hair Colouring Process

There are some interesting facts to learn about hair developers. It is no longer just a way to hide grey hair. You can also change your hair to a stylish and attractive colour. However, do not dye your hair at home without reading this to avoid mistakes that can damage your hair.

What Is A Hair Developer? What Is It Used For?

A developer is an oxidizing cream product that contains hydrogen peroxide. It opens the hair cuticles to allow colour to penetrate deep into the hair, improving colour retention. Always use a developer when dyeing your hair. Using a developer will make your hair more pigmented and help it retain its colour.

This developer opens the cuticle to allow the colour to penetrate, ensuring that the colour achieves the desired results. It can also disperse the current colour and depending on the strength of the hydrogen peroxide formulation, lift the tone of the hair colour.

Benefits of Hair Developer

Activation- Hair colour is activated when mixed with hair developer.

Consistency- Colours mixed with the cream developer are thicker and stay in place without fear of dripping. Developers can also help ensure uniform coverage.

Colour Release- The developer deposits the colour by lifting the cuticle layer just enough for the colour pigment to slide through.

Colour Removal- Allows developers to open the overlapping cuticle layers and remove natural colour pigments from hair.

Better Colour- The colour you get is darker and lasts longer.

How Do I Choose the Right Volume Developer?

Choosing the right developer to get the desired result is very important to get the desired colour. Developer power/concentration is expressed in percent (%) or volume units (vol). The higher the number, the stronger the developer and the lighter the hair.

Developer Selection by Colour Type

Temporary Colours- Semi/semi-permanent colours are mixed with weaker developers (3 to 20 volumes) or even without a developer.

Permanent Colours- These colours are used in medium developer solutions. Usually, 20 volumes or up to 30 Vol.

Brightener- Whitening powder or cream requires the use of a stronger developer. Usually, 30 volumes up to 40 Vol.

Select The Colour Developer According To The Degree Of Lightening Or Darkening

Select the concentration of the colour developer according to the degree of lightening the hair. Typically, 1 degree of brightness is achieved for every 3% of developer. If you want to maintain colour levels, use a 3 % developer.

Choosing A Developer According To Hair Type

Hair type can also affect colour results. Different hair types react differently to dye. For example, thin hair is easier to lighten, and the colour penetrates the hair fibres faster. On the other hand, thicker hair may be more resilient during the colouring process.

Fine Hair

(i) This hair can be easily lightened or darkened.

(ii) Dying your hair dark may make it darker than necessary. Choose a light hair colour.

(iii) You can use less developer than the recommended amount.

Normal Hair

(i) This hair has a normal colour reaction.

(ii) Use the recommended amount of developer.

Thick Hair

(i) This hair is more difficult to lighten or darken.

(ii) If you dye your hair darker, the colour may become slightly lighter.

(iii) You can use more developer than the recommended amount.

(iv) Gray hair is also very resilient.

Choosing a developer according to hair quality

Hair quality can also affect the colouring process. We also often have different hair qualities on our heads e.g. normal hair with dry split ends.

Porous Hair

(i) Porous hair is easier to lighten and absorbs colour better. But the colour fades quickly.

(ii) Lightning- Reduces the amount of developer and the processing time for colouring.

(iii) Darkening- Using a larger amount of developer allows for better penetration of colour pigments.

Tip- Apply colour to the ends of your hair for the last 5-15 minutes.

Healthy Hair

(i) Hair colour reaction is normal. Very good colour absorption.

(ii) Follow the instructions on the package.